Sunday, 15 December 2013

Hacking Servo


The theory behind this hack is to make the servo think that the output shaft is always at the 90 degree mark. This is done by removing the feedback sensor, and replacing it with an equivalent circuit that creates the same readings as the sensor being at 90 degrees. Thus, giving it the signal for 0 degrees will cause the motor to turn on full speed in one direction. The signal for 180 degrees will cause the motor to go the other direction. Since the feedback from the output shaft is disconnected, the servo will continue in the appropriate direction as long as the signal remains.

The result of this is a really nice compact gearhead motor with built in electronics. The interface to this motor unit is a 1 wire control line, +5 volts for power, and a ground. All of this for around $15, which is an outstanding deal.

As for the details, there are actually only two modifications to make to the servo:
  • Replace the position sensing potentiometer with an equivalent resistor network.
  • Remove the mechanical stop from the output shaft.

You will need a few supplies:

  • Small philips screwdriver for opening the case
  • A soldering iron
  • A desoldering pump or solder wick for removing the potentiometer
  • A sharp knife or wire cutters for removing the mechanical stop
  • Two 2.2k resistors (actually, anything between 2.2k and 3.3k will work, as long as they are equal values)

The following steps will help you make the modifications:
  1. Open the case by removing the 4 screws located at the bottom of the servo. The bottom plate should come off easily. Remove the top of the case. You will find a set of gears under the top case, a several blobs of white grease. Try hard to save the grease by leaving it on the gears.

  2. Be careful to note how the gears are arranged, and remove them from the top of the servo. I usually place them as the are supposed to sit. The large fine tooth gear in the middle does not need to be removed. See the picture below.

  3. Locate and remove the two small philips head screws on the left shaft in the picture above. These screws go through the top case and into the drive motor.

  4. Next, you need to remove the circuit board from the case. To do this, you will probably need to press down hard on the brass shaft on the right side. This is the top of the position potentiometer. I find that pressing that brass shaft against the edge of the workbench helps push it through.

  5. From the bottom, very carefully pry up on opposing corners of the circuit board. The board should slide out with the motor and potentiometer attached. You should end up with the following parts on the table.

  6. Now for the actual modifications. You will need to desolder the potentiometer from the board. I usually cut the long leads off a quarter inch or so from the bottom. I then use solder wick on the back side of the board.

  7. Once the pot has been removed, you need to wire in the resistor network in its place. To do this, place the resistors side by side and twist one pair of leads. Solder them together, but leave one of the leads long enough to make a 3 wire part. Then replace the pot with this 3 wire pot. As seen in the picture below, the pot has been replaced by the resistor network.

  8. Now, reassemble the circuit board into the case. Note that the pot is now missing, so only the motor will protrude through the top of the case.

  9. Before reinstalling the gears, you will need to modify the gear with the output shaft so the mechanical stop is removed. The mechanical stop is a small tab of plastic on the lower gear surface. In the picture below, you can see the tab on the left gear. This should be cut down flush with the surface. Try to get all of the tab removed, as is shown with the gear on the right side.

  10. Replace the gears as they were when you took the motor apart, replace the top of the case, the bottom plate, and the two screws.

  11. You are done!

The motor should now be able to turn all the way around. Connect a control horn, and carefully apply enough pressure to make the horn turn around. Feel for any mechanical problems, such as a gear catching on the cut off section of the tab. You should not feel any catching or resistance. It would be best not to play with turning the servo by hand too much. This device is not intended to be driven from the output shaft, and it may cause undo wear and tear on the servo motor.

Engine Break-In Procedure

CAUTION
The instructions that are supplied with a new engine should be read thoroughly and followed for breaking in and maintaining the engine. If the instructions are not available, these instructions can be used for standard 2 - cycle engines. 

Although engine manufacturers have excellent Quality Control systems, there is always a chance that a new engine has small metal filings that can permanently damage an engine if not removed. Prior to being broken in, an engine should be inspected and cleaned to assure that all metal filings and dust are removed. This is done by simply removing the backplate and flushing with new, clean fuel. Any further attempts to disassemble could result in the warranty being voided. At this point, the owner has done as much as can be expected to reduce the chances of damage and any other damage will be covered as a warranty defect. 

Modern 2 - cycle engines can produce a surprising amount of thrust. Regardless of whether the engine is mounted on a stand or the model, the mount must be secure so that the engine cannot lurch forward when it is initially started. Disregarding this safety warning can result in serious, permanent injury. 

FUEL TANK MOUNTING
The fuel tank should be located as close to the engine as possible with of the tank level with the carburetor needle valve assembly. The fuel tank system must sealed to eliminate the possibility of fuel or air leakage. If the muffler has a pressure tap, it should be connected to the pressure inlet of the fuel tank. The tank should be mounted on high quality foam rubber to reduce fuel foaming during the break-in operation. Fuel foaming can adversely affect the operation of the engine resulting in improper break-in. 

FUEL
A good quality, commercially available fuel containing between 5% and 10% nitromethane and 20% castor oil is recommended for breaking in a new engine. A fuel with a castor/synthetic lubricant blend may be used but may less effective if the engine should suddenly run lean as the last of the fuel is used. If the oil content is less than 20%, medical grade castor oil can be purchased at a drug store and added to bring the oil level to the appropriate level. 

PROPELLERS The size of the propeller used for the break-in period is not nearly as important as that used for actual operation. The size chosen should allow the engine to turn at optimum revolutions per minute without stressing the engine or allowing it to overheat. A prop chart recommends a good starting point. Although it might not be the ideal prop, it will be adequate for breaking in the engine. 

CAUTION
It is extremely important to check the balance of a propeller before attaching it to an engine. An unbalanced propeller can cause substantial damage to an engine. 

GLOW PLUG
The type and quality of glow plug used in the engine varies from one type engine to another. If no plug is recommended, it is best to start with a very high quality R/C long-type plug such as Thunder Tiger, K&B 1L, or O.S. No. 8. Fox plugs have a colder heat range and may work on some of the cooler running engines but can cause frustration in attempting to break-in some of the modern ABC engines. It the engine slows down excessively or dies when the glow plug driver is removed, this might indicate that the heat range of the glow plug is too low. 

BREAK-IN PROCEDURES
Most engines produced today do not require a prolonged break-in period. Refer to a prop chart to determine the proper propeller size for break-in. With the propeller installed securely to the engine, the glow plug installed, the fuel lines connected, and the tank filled with fuel, the break-in operations can begin. The idle mixture screw and/or idle stop screw should not be adjusted during the initial break-in period. This will only serve to complicate the process. All adjustments during break-in will be made to the needle valve. The initial setting is made by turning the needle valve clockwise until resistance is felt. This is the fully closed position. Forcing the needle valve beyond this point can damage the carburetor. The needle valve is then turned counter-clockwise about 2 - 2 1/2 turns to open the port to good starting point. 

Using the transmitter or throttle pushrod, the throttle is opened to 1/2 to 3/4. Without the glow plug battery connected, a finger is placed over the carburetor opening and the propeller is rotated counter-clockwise 2 - 3 turns or until fuel flows through the fuel line into the carburetor. A 1.5 volt ignition battery or power panel is connected to the glow plug. The throttle opening is then reduced to 1/4 - 1/2 open. The propeller is the flipped counter-clockwise using a "chicken stick" or electric starter. The engine should fire after a few seconds. After the engine starts, leave the glow plug battery connected and advance the throttle to full open. At this point, the engine should be running very rich, i.e. dense smoke and/or heavy oil residue coming from the exhaust. 

After the engine runs for a minute or two, the needle valve is closed 1/4 turn clockwise and the glow plug clip is disconnected. The engine should be allowed to consume the entire tank of fuel at this needle setting, making sure the engine remains rich. After the first tank of fuel is depleted, the engine should be allowed to cool for a few minutes. During the second tank of fuel, the engine is run at alternate throttle settings, 1/2 throttle for 30 seconds, full throttle for 30 seconds, and back to 1/2 throttle, until about half the fuel is consumed. At this point, the throttle is slowly advanced to full and the needle valve is closed slowly, about 1/8 turn at a time, until maximum revolutions are reached. Finally, the needle setting is turned about 1/8 turn counter-clockwise to avoid an overly lean running condition and the balance is consumed. The engine is allowed to cool again and the tank is refilled. Without resetting the needle valve, a third tank of fuel is run through the engine while alternating the throttle position ever 30 seconds to 1 minute between 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle. At this point, the engine is ready for the first flight. The engine is not broken in completely at this point so care must be taken to avoid running the engine overly lean.

Propellor Selection Chart


2-Stroke Engine
ENGINE SIZEPREFERRED SIZEALTERNATE SIZE
.0496 x 35 1/4 x 4, 5 1/2 x 4, 6 x 3 1/2, 6 x 4, 7 x 3
.097 x 47 x 3, 7 x 4 1/2, 7 x 5
.158 x 48 x 5, 8 x 6, 9 x 4
.19 - .259 x 48 x 5, 8 x 6, 9 x 5
.29 - 309 x 69 1/2 x 6, 10 x 5
.4010 x 69 x 8, 11 x 5
.4510 x 710 x 6, 11 x 5, 11 x 6, 12 x 4
.5011 x 610 x 8, 11 x 7, 12 x 4, 12 x 5
.60 - .6111 x 711 x 7 1/2, 11 x 7 3/4, 11 x 8, 12 x 6
.7012 x 611 x 8, 12 x 8, 13 x 6, 14 x 4
.78 - .8013 x 612 x 8, 14 x 4, 14 x 5
.90 - .9114 x 613 x 8, 15 x 6, 16 x 5
1.2016 x 616 x 10, 18 x 5, 18 x 6
1.5018 x 618 x 8, 20 x 6
1.8018 x 818 x 10, 20 x 6


4-Stroke Engine
ENGINE SIZEPREFERRED SIZEALTERNATE SIZE
.20 - .219 x 69 x 5, 10 x 5
.4011 x 610 x 6, 10 x 7, 11 x 4, 11 x 5, 11 x 7, 11 x 7 1/2, 12 x 4
.45 - .4811 x 610 x 6, 10 x 7, 11 x 7, 11 x 7 1/2, 12 x 4, 12 x 5, 12 x 6
.60 - .6512 x 611 x 7 1/2, 11 x 7 3/4, 11 x 8, 12 x 8, 13 x 5, 13 x 6
.7012 x 611 x 7 1/2, 11 x 7 3/4, 11 x 8, 12 x 8, 13 x 5, 13 x 6
.8013 x 612 x 8, 13 x 8, 14 x 4, 14 x 6
.9014 x 612 x 10, 13 x 8, 14 x 8, 15 x 6
1.0816 x 615 x 8, 18 x 5
1.2016 x 614 x 8, 15 x 6, 15 x 8, 16 x 8, 17 x 6, 18 x 5, 18 x 6
1.6016 x 615 x 6, 15 x 8, 16 x 8, 18 x 6, 18 x 8, 20 x 6
2.4018 x 1018 x 12, 20 x 8, 20 x 10
2.7020 x 818 x 10, 20 x 8, 20 x 10
3.0020 x 1018 x 12, 20 x 10

Decorating is equally important

TWO COLOR COVERING

The introduction of heat-shrinkable plastic covering has saved a lot of labor and time for many modelers. Plastic coverings require far less effort and skill than the silk and dope or silkspan and dope coverings of the past. A tight, glossy, attractive covering job can be achieved by anyone with the right tools and a little patience.

As with any other covering methods, there are inherent drawbacks to plastic covering. One of the major problems is that of applying trim sheets to the completed covering surface. Several methods have been devised to overcome the problem of applying the trim sheets without having bubbles appear later. Some of them work far better than others but there is no assurance that bubbles will not eventually appear. This is especially true with large trim sheets. The larger the area, the greater the chance that trapped moisture will expand and cause bubbles.

Sometimes, the need arises for a multi-color covering pattern that requires large but relatively simple trim patterns. In this case, there is a viable alternative to using large pieces of trim. The pattern can be cut from the covering material and joined into a single piece before it is applied to the model. The method described is for a two (2) color pattern but can also be applied to more complex patterns such as the scallop, stripe, and sunray patterns used on a typical Citabria. It can even been used for camouflage patterns that have sharp edges between colors.

The process begins with deciding how the pattern is to be laid out to achieve the desired results. Illustration 1 shows a Thunder Tiger Trainer 40 that was recovered with red and white material to duplicate the original color scheme as closely as possible.
monocote designing


The closed surfaces of the fuselage, stabilizer, and fin are covered using normal practices. The white of the fuselage is cut to the desired shape allowing a 1/4" overlap and applied. The red is then cut to shape and applied with the overlap.

The open bay of the wing requires a different process. There is no surface onto which the edge of the white covering can be sealed before the red is applied. In this case, the white and red pieces are joined together before they are applied to the wing. The bottom of the wing is solid white and is covered prior to beginning the layout of the top surface.

Templates for both the white and red patterns are cut from a heavy card stock to ensure that the patterns are the same on both upper wing surfaces. The template for the lighter color, white in this case, must be cut 1/2" larger to allow the darker, red, to be joined with an overlap. The overlap can be as little as 1/4" but this leaves no margin for error when applying heat to shrink the material. An additional 1" to 2" allowance is made on the outer edges to allow handling and pulling the finished material when it is being applied to the wing. This is normal practice for all plastic covering materials. The amount of this allowance is left up to the discretion of the builder. The templates are laid over the covering material and used to cut the outlines of the pieces that make up the final piece. Illustration 2 depicts the layout for the pieces of covering material used on the left wing of the Thunder Tiger Trainer 40.
monocote diagram


The right wing panel covering sheet is made by flipping the templates over on the covering material and cutting the pieces exactly opposite of those for the left wing.

After the covering pieces are cut, they must be joined together before covering can begin. This is a critical stage. The joint must be strong enough to resist being pulled apart when the heat is applied to shrink the covering material. The backing material can be left in place on the lighter color material but part of the backing must be remove from the darker material to allow the joint to be made. This is accomplished by pulling the backing material loose along the edge that will be joined and cutting it with scissors roughly 1/2" to 1" from the edge. This allows room for working with the edge but the majority of the adhesive surface remains protected from contaminates.

A solvent such MonoKote Trim Solvent or acetone is used to activate (soften) the adhesive along the overlap. A soft brush, like a camel hair artist's brush, that is the width of the overlap is used to apply the solvent. The solvent must be applied evenly over the entire length of the overlap. After only a few seconds, the adhesive will be sufficiently tacky so the parts can be joined. The lighter covering should be held in place on a flat surface so that it will not move while the darker piece is being joined. Illustration 3 shows the light and dark pieces joined with a 1/2" overlap.


moncote joint


Care must be taken to place the overlap joint at precisely the desired point with a minimum of movement required. Any movement can cause the adhesive to smear over the surface of the lighter covering. After the joint is made, it is pressed down with a squeegee to ensure that no air is trapped in the overlap. Although the solvent will evaporate very quickly, it should be allowed to sit overnight to be sure that it has adequate time to "gas out".

After the covering sheets are made, they can be used to cover the wing panel using normal covering practices with one exception. The corners are tacked down with a covering iron then the edges are pulled into place and tacked down. Illustration 4 shows the finished covering sheet laid over the wing panel.

monocote overlaid


When heat is applied to shrink the covering, extreme care must be take to avoid over-exposing the edge of the darker material to the heat. Although the edge is joined, it is still a raw edge and is subject to pulling back. The solvent welded joint should hold up to normal shrinking without pulling apart at the seam.

After the covering is applied, it is trimmed along the outer edges to complete the process. To further accentuate the color scheme and to help protect the raw edge, pin-stripe tape can be applied over the raw edge at the seam. Illustration 5 shows the left wing panel completed. If the wing is one piece, the covering of the opposite wing panel is allowed to overlap at the center of the wing.


finished


With proper planning, almost any multi-color trim scheme can be applied in the same was as the two color scheme described. Using this method is more work but the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. There is a slight reduction in the weight of the covering but this is relatively insignificant. There is far less chance of bubbles appearing. Reheating to tighten the covering results should it become loose has much better results. Builders who have had problems before that his method virtually eliminates those problems.

SILKSPAN COVERING

Over the last four (4) decades, the choices of covering materials for models have expanded steadily and R/C modelers have quickly adopted the new methods. Modelers involved in other disciplines, especially control-line stunt, are not as eager to change their methods of finishing models. There must be a reason for this. The primary reasons are that it is easy, cheap, fun, and above all, beautiful. Silkspan, the primary covering material, is lightweight, accepts nearly all paints readily, and will never sag, bubble or wrinkle. It goes on just as easily over either sheeted structures or open framework.

Silkspan is primarily used on smaller models like Old Timers, 1/2A glow and small electrics, but it is also an excellent surface preparation for sheeted surfaces even on giant scale warbirds. There are two (2) primary disadvantages to using silkspan; it is easier to tear or puncture than plastic coverings and requires much more time and effort to finish.

R/C modelers could learn a few things about finishing their airplanes from control-line modelers. These people can make the most phenomenal finishes and keep them light enough so that the model is competitive. Maybe this is in part the reason that control-line stunt models are scored on appearance and R/C pattern planes are not.

The stunt community in general frowns upon anything that irons on. The purpose of covering the balsa structure with silkspan is to hide the grain, not fill it, and to add strength. It makes a tremendous difference in strength. According to Windy Urtknowski, a guru of stunt model finishing, there is no way to fill balsa grain at an effective weight. He says he has tried covering with glue and sanding it off, but that the grain reveals again after sitting in the sun for a while.


The steps required to achieve that fabulous finish are:
  1. Sand everything as smooth as possible with 400-grit paper.

  2. Brush 3 coats of clear nitrate dope thinned as little as possible but still resulting in good paint flow. These coats must provide a reasonably waterproof seal so that when the wet silkspan is applied, the underlying structure will not warp due to the moisture.

  3. Again, sand everything as smooth as possible with 400-grit paper.

  4. Start the covering with the bottom of the wing. Lay the wing on a clean work surface and trim a sheet of silkspan to oversize allowing 1" to 2" of excess around the perimeter. Wet the silkspan with water until it is completely saturated. This will cause it to swell and wrinkle.

  5. Gently lay the silkspan sheet over the surface to be covered. Start lifting and smoothing the silkspan until all wrinkles are removed and it is pulled fairly taut. Use wet brush to help to force bubbles toward the edges being careful not to tear the silkspan. Even wet, it is surprisingly tough.

  6. Using a sheet 240-grit paper, sand the edges on the down-stroke only to feather away the excess silkspan. The silkspan can be easily worked around compound curves, leading edges and wingtips.

  7. Once the silkspan is trimmed and while it is still damp, brush on a coat of nitrate dope that is thinned 50%. The dope is this highly thinned so that it will partially dissolve the dope that is already on the bare balsa. This will bond the covering to the airframe.

  8. Cover the rest of the wing and then the fuselage following steps 4 thru 7. Overlap the successive pieces so that there are no gaps.

  9. Brush 3 more coats of clear.

  10. Sand everything as smooth as possible with 400-grit paper.

  11. Make a sanding sealer using equal parts of thinner, clear dope, and corn starch or unscented talcum powder.

  12. Brush on a thin coat of the sanding sealer over any remaining pits or dings.

  13. Sand off as much sanding sealer as possible with 400-grit paper.

  14. Sand everything as smooth as possible with 400-grit paper.

  15. Spray a coat or two of 50/50 clear/thinner to seal the filler coats.

  16. Sand this lightly with 600-grit paper.
  17. The ultimate goal of this process is to make all of the surfaces as flat as possible then use the dope and silkspan to make it smooth. The trick up to this point is to use as little thinner as possible in the mix. Thinner changes the shape of the wood taking away from the flatness of the wood and requiring more sanding. The trick to finding flaws is to sand in a room with only one light source. Hold the model up to the light and bounce the light off the working surface on at an oblique angle. This will make even he slightest flaw visible. This technique is called candling. All flaws must be corrected at this point; otherwise they will be even more visible after the color coat is applied. Silver primer is very important to an award winning finish, especially when translucent paints, such as candy apple automotive paints, are used.
  18. Spray a coat of silver dope. Allow it to dry for about a week. The longer it dries, the easier it is to sand to a smooth finish. If the paint balls up while being sanded, it did not time to dry sufficiently. Stop immediately and allow a few more days for it to dry.
  19. Normally, the reaction when the silver is sanded will be frustration. Every flaw is highlighted. Sand off as much of this silver as possible and correct all flaws with sanding sealer.
  20. Apply a second coat of silver.

  21. Again, correct all the flaws.

  22. Continue this process on the surface has the appearance of machined aluminum. The silver dope is actually used ultra fine filler coat.
  23. Note: Do not spray different colors over each other. This adds weight and makes the color harder to apply. For example, do not paint the entire surface white and put blue trim over the white parts. Mask the areas that are to be painted white and spray it. Remove the masking and allow this coat to dry thoroughly. Mask over the white and spray the blue trim. The silver dope is a perfect base for all colors and saves weight. Finishing this way takes a lot of work and time but the results are incredible. 
  24. Mask and spray the lightest color paint first.

  25. Mask and spray the remaining colors.

  26. Sand the color coats to a dull finish with 1200-grit paper, paying close attention to smoothing the edges as much as possible without through the color coats.

  27. After an even, smooth surface is achieved, spray about 4-6 coats of clear over the entire surface.

  28. Let this cure at least a month. The harder the paint, the shinier it will be and the longer it will keep its shine.

  29. Rub the whole plane with fine rubbing compound.

  30. Rub the whole plane with Gorham's Silver Polish.

  31. Wax it 2-3 coats with fine automotive wax.
  32. This covering technique is lighter than most of the plastic film coverings, will never wrinkle, and is quite easy although time consuming to do. The results that can be achieved from this method are incredible and unattainable with film coverings.

Types of Aeromodels

Aeromodels can be basically classified into 2 types:
  • Static and
  • Flying
Static model aircrafts are not intended to fly. They are commonly built using plastic detail parts, photo etched brass, and wire, though other materials such as wood, metal, and paper are also often used. Some static models are scaled for use in wind tunnels, where the data acquired is used to aid the design of full scale aircraft.
Flying aeromodels are, as suggested by the name, model aircrafts capable of actual flight. While static models lay more emphasis on the external appearance of an aircraft, flying models need considerations of weight, balance and strength as well. Shape considerations tend to focus more on the aerodynamics or flight characteristics of the model than just the external looks such as paint and finish. Different building materials may be used for building flying aeromodels but they should have a good weight-strength ratio. Balsa wood and polystyrene foam meet these criteria and are choice materials for construction. Also, bits of glass fiber cloth, plywood and some plastic moulded parts such as propellers and spinner cones may be incorporated in the design. Just like the static models, it is always a good idea for beginners to go for kits rather than trying to build models from sheets of balsa wood!
They may be classified very basically as:
  • Powered or
  • Unpowered,
depending on whether they have a source of power (such as a motor or an engine) to assist their flying.
Also, depending on the method by which they are controlled in flight, flying aeromodels may be classified as
  • Free flight models (with only built-in controls)
  • Control-line models or
  • Radio-controlled models

UNPOWERED AEROMODELS are without a power plant and fly only using the initial force supplied during launching.
The chuck gliders are launched in the air by the chucking action of the hand and are often flown indoors. Hence they are also known as 'Indoor models' Some chuck gliders are made using sheets / blocks of 'thermocol'. These tend to float in air for longer time and have longer wings and higher lift compared to other models of this class. The critical aspect of such aeromodels is the design of the wing, as this decides the time of flight of the model.
Catapult models are also similar to chuck models, except they are launched from a hand-operated catapult, rather than a chuck of the hand. These models are swift, have a longer range and are suitable outdoors. Catapult models need to be stronger than chuck gliders, hence are made of wood / plastic and not thermocol. They are basically model planes which take-off with the aid of a rubber string hooked to it. The tension in the string pushes the model forward when released. These models are usually made out of balsa. The success of the flight depends on the shape of the wings (aerofoil).
Tow-line models are gliders which are launched using a long line with a ring hook, in the open against the wind direction. The launcher runs against the wind after the helper releases the aircraft. Once in air, the aircraft rapidly gains height until it is at the top most point called the 'zenith'. The model automatically detaches from the tow-line as the ring hook slips and glides back to earth in wide circles. The fin is off-set a couple of degrees while constructing, to aid the glider to descend in circles.

POWERED AEROMODELS:
Free flight models are aircrafts fitted with an internal combustion, reciprocating engine (usually small compression ignition engines of capacity around 0.75 cc). They are launched in an open field and gain height as a virtue of pre-set elevators, as long as the engine is running. Calculated amount of fuel is filled in the tank to gain a desired height. When the engine cuts, the free flight model glides back to the earth, freely, just like a glider!http://www.parmodels.com/free_flights.htm
Rubber powered models are simplest class among the powered aeromodels. They also fall in the category of 'Indoor models' and are similar to chuck gliders, but made of balsa wood. They have a propeller which drives power from the unwinding of a twisted rubber band. Special rubber powered motors are also supplied with some kits. They also come under free flight models.
Control-line models are a stepping stone towards the radio-controlled models and are usually fitted with compression ignition engines from 1 - 3.5 cc capacity and are controlled by means of two metal cables, which control the elevators of the aircraft. A fixed rudder position in the design of the aircraft ensures that the aircraft flies in circles around the flyer but pulling away, to keep the control line taut at all times. Depending on the flight characteristics and the ease of maneuvering, the control-line aircrafts may be trainers or aerobatic models or speed models. Trainer models are sturdy and have low speeds and sluggish controls to allow a beginner to gain experience in flying powered aircrafts. The aerobatic models are light weight, overpowered and have sharp controls which allow the flyer to perform in-flight aerobatics with the model. Speed models are racing models, generally used in competitions and are dedicated to very high speeds. Some of the aerobatic and speed models are powered by glow-plug engines for an extra boost of power. More about control line model: http://www.go-cl.se/clinf.html About control line competitions:http://dkd.net/clmodels/links.html
Radio controlled models fly like real aircrafts and are a keen aeromodeller's ultimate dream. They are remotely controlled by means of a radio transmitter. The receiver fitted in the aircraft picks up the transmitted signals and manipulates the flight controls to fly and even perform aerobatics. Generally a 4 channeled radio with 4 servos fitted on the aircraft gives the flyer (pilot) control of the elevators, ailerons, rudder and the throttle. The more the channels on your radio the finer control you can exert on the aeromodel. These models are powered by a single / multi-cylinder glow plug reciprocating engine. There is a huge variety of engines available in several price ranges differing in their engine capacities, types (some are 2-stroke engines while others are 4-stroke), cylinder configurations, throttle controls and accessories. Some advanced models also incorporate jet engines or solid rock motors which use a solid propellant.
Types of RC planes: Powered sailplanes are popular choices for electrically-powered planes since a relatively low amount of power is required to sustain flight. This corresponds to long flight times of 10-20 minutes and more. Some gliders are capable of high speeds and advanced aerobatics, others are designed for seeking and circling in hot air packets called thermals. The smallest sailplanes are about 4-5 feet in wingspan and can fly effectively as pure gliders or with .049 engines or 50-100 watt (035 class) motors. They require the smallest radio equipment due to their small fuselages. Standard-class sailplanes are the next largest at slightly over 9 foot wingspans. Sailplanes larger than this are classified as open class gliders. Relatively few of these planes are powered, but could be modified to accept 200-400 watt (15 to 40) electric motors as desired.
Trainers are used to learn flying rc models. Although the easiest way to learn to fly R/C planes is through sailplanes, many opt for the more traditional Cessna-like trainer approach. Most trainers are gas-powered, but several kits also come in an electric flavor. Most of these planes are designed for 100-250 watt (05-15) motors and have wingspans of 3-5 feet. They generally fly somewhat faster than the typical sailplane, but still slowly enough for the novice to comprehend the situation and respond correctly. Trainers are generally high-wing planes with flat-bottom airfoils and plenty of dihedral for positive stability and high lift at low speeds. Most good trainers, if placed in an unusual or hazardous attitude, will recover on their own if there is sufficient alititude.
Sport and Aerobatic models: After mastering the basics of flight, many modelers seek planes that are less overtly stable than trainers and hence make better aerobatic planes. Such planes range from 3-9 foot wingspans with 100-1500 watt (05-90) motors. Unlike sailplanes and trainers which utilize a flat-bottom airfoil, most sport planes use semi-symmetrical and symmetrical airfoils. This can sacrifice some lifting capability but usually improves handling in gusty wind conditions and during aerobatic maneuvers. The plane tends to be neutrally stable -- they "go where they're pointed"; i.e. they don't self-recover from bad situations as readily as trainers.
Pylon racers: Some pilots choose to design low drag planes that will go as fast as possible. Such planes typically have 3-4 foot wingspans and use 200-400 watt motors, reaching speeds well in excess of 100 mph! Some gas kits can achieve speeds of 200 mph. By comparison, typical sport planes fly at 40-60 mph, sailplanes from 20-60 mph.
Scale models: Exact scale models of all varieties of civilian and military planes are also popular targets for model airplane enthusiasts. Details are easier to implement in larger models, so such planes tend to be above 5 feet in wingspan and have high power requirements (300+ watts). Civilian planes with light wing loadings, such as the classic J-3 Cub, and multiengine models as displayed above, are excellent electric flyers. Ducted fan models: For those who like special challenges, you can model jet aircraft with electrics as well! Electric ducted fan models are a new exiting and challenging part of the hobby.
Ducted fan models powered by an electric motor have only been possible for a couple of years. Contrary to typical prop planes, where a "slow"-turning, high torque motor is desired, in ducted fan models high RPMs are needed on relatively few NiCad. Fortunately, R/C car aficionados use high speed motors for racing purposes often with "only" 6-7 cells. Also, motors used in pylon racers are also frequently suitable for ducted fans.
RC Helicopters: R/C helicopters are an interesting aspect of the hobby. Such models can hover and move exactly like their full-size counterparts -- in addition to non-scale abilities such as inverted flight and stunning aerobatics. Relatively few electric helicopters have entered the market due to the short flight times (you can't exactly glide a helicopter). Helicopters tend to be more complicated and costly to build and maintain, a trait which R/C helicopters also inherit.

Balsa, the muscles of Aeromodelling

Model airplanes are no different than any other type of flying machine, large or small - THE LIGHTER IT IS BUILT, THE BETTER IT WILL FLY! With that in mind, it is easy to understand why balsa wood has been the standard material for model airplane construction since it first became readily available in the late 1920's. Its outstanding strength-to-weight ratio enables hobbyists to construct durable models that fly in totally realistic manner. Balsa also absorbs shock and vibration well and can be easily cut, shaped, and glued with simple hand tools.

WHERE DOES BALSA WOOD COME FROM?
Balsa trees grow naturally in the humid rain forests of Central and South America and New Guinea. Its natural range extends south from Guatemala, through Central America, to the north and west coast of South America as far as Bolivia and New Guinea. However, the small country of Ecuador, on the western coast of South America, is the primary source of model aircraft grade balsa in the world. Balsa needs a warm climate with plenty of rainfall and good drainage. For that reason, the best stands of balsa usually appear on the high ground between tropical rivers. Ecuador has the ideal geography and climate for growing balsa trees. The scientific name for balsa wood is ochroma lagopus. The word balsa itself is Spanish meaning raft, in reference to its excellent flotation qualities. In Ecuador it is known as Boya, meaning buoy.

HOW DOES BALSA WOOD GROW?
There is no such thing as entire forests of balsa trees. They grow singly or in very small, widely scattered groups in the jungle. For hundreds of years, balsa was actually considered a weed tree. They reproduce by growing hundreds of long seed pods, which eventually open up and, with the help of the wind, scatter thousands of new seeds over a large area of the jungle. Each seed is airborne on its own small wisp of down, similar to the way dandelion seeds spread. The seeds eventually fall to the ground and are covered by the litter of the jungle. There they lay and accumulate until one day there is an opening in the jungle canopy large enough for the sun's rays to strike the jungle floor and start the seeds growing. Wherever there was an opening, made either by a farmer or by another tree dying, balsa will spring up as thick as grass. A farmer is often hard put to keep his food plot clear of balsa. As the new balsa trees grow, the strongest will become predominate and the weaker trees will die. By the time they are mature, there may be only one or two balsa trees to an acre of jungle.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE A BALSA TREE TO GROW?
Balsa trees grow very rapidly (like all pesky trees). Six months after germination, the tree is about 1-1/2 inches in diameter and 10 - 12 feet tall! In 6 to 10 years, the tree is ready for cutting, having reached a height of 60 to 90 feet tall and a diameter of 12 to 45 inches. If left to continue growing, the new wood being grown on the outside layers becomes very hard and the tree begins to rot in the centre. Unharvested, a balsa tree may grow to a diameter of 6 feet or more, but very little usable timber can be obtained from a tree of this size. The balsa leaf is similar in shape to a grape leaf, only a lot bigger. When the tree is young, these leaves measure as much as 4 feet across. They become progressively smaller as the tree grows older, until they are about 8 - 10 inches across. Balsa is one of the few trees in the jungle which has a simple leaf shape. This fact alone makes the balsa tree stand out in the jungle.

THE PERFECT NURSE!
Nature evidently designed the balsa tree to be a "nurse tree" which would protect the slower-growing species of trees from the scorching jungle sun during their critical early years. For instance, in an area of the jungle that has been ravaged by a tropical storm or other natural disaster, the balsa trees will quickly sprout and beginning to shoot up to impressive heights in a very short time. Their fast growth and the extra large leaves they have in their early years, provide shade to the young seedlings of the slower-growing forest giants. By the time the seedlings are established enough to take care of themselves, the balsa tree is beginning to die. Undoubtedly, the balsa tree's rapid growth, fast spreading crown of first very large and gradually smaller leaves, and it's relatively short life span were intended to make it the "perfect nurse" in the jungle ecosystem.

HOW ARE BALSA TREES HARVESTED?
While nature intended the balsa tree to be a short lived nursemaid, mankind eventually discovered that it was an extremely useful resource. The real start of the balsa business was during World War I, when the allies were in need of a plentiful substitute for cork. The only draw back to using balsa was, and still is, the back breaking work that is necessary to get it out of the jungle. Because of the way the individual balsa trees are scattered throughout the jungles, it has never been possible to use mass production logging procedures and equipment. The best way to log balsa trees is to go back to the methods of Paul Bunyan - chop them down with an axe, haul them to the nearest river by ox team, tie them together into rafts, and then float the raft of balsa logs down the river to the saw mill. The logging team usually consists of two men, each armed with a broad Spanish axe, a machete, and a long pole sharpened like a chisel on one end for removing the bark from the downed trees. Because of the hilly terrain, an ox team may only be able to drag two logs to the river per day. At the saw mill, the balsa is first rough cut into large boards, then carefully kiln dried, and finally packed into bales for shipment. As a result of the balsa tree's fast growth cycle, both the quality and lightness of the timber obtained from a balsa tree can vary enormously depending upon the tree's age at the time of cutting.

WHY IS BALSA WOOD SO LIGHT?
The secret to balsa wood's lightness can only be seen with a microscope. The cells are big and very thinned walled, so that the ratio of solid matter to open space is as small as possible. Most woods have gobs of heavy, plastic-like cement, called lignin, holding the cells together. In balsa, lignin is at a minimum. Only about 40% of the volume of a piece of balsa is solid substance. To give a balsa tree the strength it needs to stand in the jungle, nature pumps each balsa cell full of water until they become rigid - like a car tire full of air. Green balsa wood typically contains five times as much water by weight as it has actual wood substance, compared to most hardwoods which contain very little water in relation to wood substance. Green balsa wood must therefore be carefully kiln dried to remove most of the water before it can be sold. Kiln drying is a tedious two week process that carefully removes the excess water until the moisture content is only 6%. Kiln drying also kills any bacteria, fungi, and insects that may have been in the raw balsa wood.

HOW LIGHT IS KILN DRIED BALSA WOOD?
Finished balsa wood, like you find in model airplane kits, varies widely in weight. Balsa is occasionally found weighing as little as 4 lbs. per cu. ft. On the other hand, you can also find balsa which will weigh 24 lbs. or more per cu. ft. However, the general run of commercial balsa for model airplanes will weigh between 6 lbs. to 18 lbs. per cu. ft. Eight to twelve lb. balsa is considered medium or average weight, and is the most plentiful. Six pounds or less is considered "contest grade", which is very rare and sometimes even impossible to obtain. The lighter the wood is in color the softer the wood is. Dark colored balsa can be quite hard.

IS BALSA THE LIGHTEST WOOD IN THE WORLD? No! Most people are surprised to hear that botanically, balsa wood is only about the third or fourth lightest wood in the world. However, all the woods which are lighter than balsa are terribly weak and unsuitable for any practical use. The very lightest varieties don't really resemble wood at all, as we commonly think of it, but are more like a tree-like vegetable that grows in rings, similar in texture to an onion. It is not until balsa is reached that there is any sign of real strength combined with lightness. In fact, balsa wood is often considered the strongest wood for its weight in the world. Pound for pound it is stronger in some respects than pine, hickory, or even oak.

General Cutting Guidelines

COMMON MODELER'S TOOLS FOR CUTTING AND SHAPING BALSA WOOD:
Balsa is a very 'friendly" wood to work with - so light, so soft, so easily worked into so many things. You don't need heavy duty power saws and sanders like you would if working with a hardwood. If you are just starting out in the model airplane hobby, here are the tools that are recommended that you get: A knife or razor blade will work well for cutting balsa sheets and sticks up to 3/16" thick. Use a razor saw for sizes thicker than 3/16". Always keep replacement blades on hand - blades do wear out and a dull blade can make it impossible to do a good job.

YOU WILL ALSO NEED SANDING BLOCKS:
In addition to the cutting tools, you will need an assortment of different size sanding blocks. These are indispensable tools for model construction. You can buy ready-made sanding blocks or make your own. The most often used general purpose sanding block is made simply by wrapping a full 9" x 11" sheet of sandpaper around a 3/4" x 3" x 11" hardwood or plywood block. Use three screws along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper in place. Use 80 grit garnet sandpaper on the block during general construction. Another handy sanding block to have can be made by gluing 80 grit garnet sandpaper onto a 24" or 36" long piece of aluminum channel stock. Most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum in various sizes and shapes. This long sanding block is very helpful for shaping leading and trailing edges, and other large pieces, accurately. Last, but not least, glue sandpaper onto different sizes of scrap plywood sticks and round hardwood dowels. These are handy for working in tight places and for careful shaping where a big sanding block is too hard to control.

In selecting balsa sheets for use in your model, it is important to consider the way the grain runs through the sheet as well as the weight of the sheet. The grain direction actually controls the rigidity or flexibility of a balsa sheet more than the density does. For example, if the sheet is cut from the log so that the tree's annular rings run across the thickness of the sheet (A-grain, tangent cut), then the sheet will be fairly flexible edge to edge. In fact, after soaking in water some tangent cut sheets can be completely rolled into a tube shape without splitting. If on the other hand the sheet is cut with the annular rings running through the thickness of the sheet (C-grain, quarter grain), the sheet will be very rigid edge to edge and cannot be bent without splitting. When the grain direction is less clearly defined (B-grain, random cut), the sheet will have intermediate properties between A and C grain. Naturally, B-grain is the most common and is suitable for most jobs. The point to bear in mind is that whenever you come across pure A-grain or C-grain sheets, learn where to use them to take best advantage of their special characteristics. The following chart illustrates the 3 basic grain types for sheet balsa and lists the most appropriate uses for each.

Cross-Section of Balsa Log

A-GRAIN sheet balsa has long fibers that show up as long grain lines. It is very flexible across the sheet and bends around curves easily. Also warps easily. Sometimes called "tangent cut". DO: Use for sheet covering rounded fuselages and wing leading edges, planking fuselages, forming tubes, strong flexible spars, HL glider fuselages. DON'T: Use for sheet balsa wings or tail surfaces, flat fuselage sides, ribs, or formers.

B-GRAIN sheet balsa has some of the qualities of both type A and type C. Grain lines are shorter than type A, and it feels stiffer across the sheet. It is a general purpose sheet and can be used for many jobs. Sometimes called "random cut". DO: Use for flat fuselage sides, trailing edges, wing ribs, formers, planking gradual curves, wing leading edge sheeting. DON'T: Use where type A or type C will do a significantly better job.

C-GRAIN sheet balsa has a beautiful mottled appearance. It is very stiff across the sheet and splits easily. But when used properly, it helps to build the lightest strongest models. Most warp resistant type. Sometimes called "quarter grain". DO: Use for sheet balsa wings and tails, flat fuselage sides, wing ribs, formers, trailing edges. Best type for HL glider wings and tails. DON'T: Use for curved planking, rounded fuselages, round tubes, HL glider fuselage, or wing spars. 

Designing RC Model

R/C Model Design Aerodynamics, Flight mechanics and Structures are three important branches of Aerospace engineering which play a crucial role in designing a full scale aircraft. But in designing a model plane, first two branches play important role and the third one is not considered in detail. 

Radio controlled model aircraft can be designed using some basic rules of thumb or more appropriately, design paramaters. These basic design parameters can be applied to a trainer or sport model. There are no complex or magic formulas to solve. These paramaters have been proven to work by a multitude of sport models that have been developed using these rules. A modeler who has built a few models and has gained some knowledge of common structures can design a plane that suits his individual needs. 

The design begins with selecting the size of engine that will be used. This will become the determining factor for the entire design. The wing area is first selected from the table. 



Engine/Wing Area

ENGINEWING AREA
.049200 - 250 sq. in.
.10250 - 350 sq. in.
.15300 - 450 sq. in.
.25400 - 500 sq. in.
.40500 - 700 sq. in.
.60600 - 850 sq. in.

After selecting the engine size and wing area, the next step is to determine the wingspan and wing chord that will give this wing area and an aspect ratio between 5:1 and 6:1. If .40 size engine is selected, the wing area will be 500 - 700 sq. in. To make things simple, and area of 600 sq. in. and a span of 60" is chosen. This will give a chord of 10" and an aspect ratio of 6:1. The rest of the design will be based on the chord length.

The next step in determining the configuration of the wing is selecting the airfoil according to the purpose of the model. 


Airfoil Type
AIRFOIL SHAPECHARACTERISTIC
Flat BottomSlow, docile, forgiving, poor inverted flight
Semi-SymmetricalGood lift, penetration, aerobatic, and inverted flight
SymmetricalBest aerobatic and inverted flight

Programs can be downloaded that will draw one of a multitude of airfoils. Airfoils can also be plotted manually using the coordinate dimensions to draw points on the airfoil and drawing the curve of the airfoil using a French curve or flexible rule. The airfoil that is selected should have a thickness of 15% - 18% of the chord at 30% - 40% from the leading edge and should have a blunt leading edge for gentle stall characteristics. The wing incidence is normally set to 0 degree. The dihedral will be 0 degree to 3 degree with ailerons and 3 degree to 5 degree without ailerons. Finally, the type of ailerons that will be used is selected and the size determined according to the chord.

The fuselage length is now calculated using the 10" chord. The nose will be 10" - 15" and the tail will be 20" - 24". Taking the median dimension of these, the fuselage length will be 44 1/2" (12.5" nose + 10" chord + 22" tail). The engine thrust is usually set for 0 degree to 3 degree down and 0 degree to 3 degree to the right. The landing gear is selected as a matter of preference. A conventional landing gear is set even with the leading edge of the wing. The main gear of a tricycle landing gear is placed 1 1/2" behind the center of gravity. The width of either main gear is 1/4 of the wingspan.

The stabilizer area will be 20% - 22% of the wing area. The area for the 600 sq. in. wing would be 126 sq. in. nominal. The aspect ratio for the stabilizer is 3:1. Using a stabilizer chord of 6 1/2", the length of the stabiler would be 19 1/2" and the area would be 127 sq. in. The elevator is 20%; of the stabilizer area or 25 sq. in.

The fin is 1/3 of the stabilizer area and the rudder is 1/3 - 1/2 of the total fin area. For the current example, the total area of the fin would be 42 sq. in. and the rudder would be 21 sq. in. 
The type of structure that is designed will depend on the use for which the model is intended and the personal preference of the builder. The slab sided fuselages are easier to build than the truss work structures but are also heavier and stronger in most cases. Foam wings are easier to build than built up wings but are heavier and more accurate. A little knowledge of structure goes a long way in the design of a model. In many cases, a modeler will design using the structural configuration of another model and simply change the appearance or the size of the model. 

These design parameters were originally collected by Romney Bukolt and published in "Marcs Sparks" in about 1975. Since that time, the validity of the parameters has been proven by the many different models which have been designed using this method. 

Simple plans for fast bullet planes (scratch built)

Hello everyone,
I just wanted to do a quick post for the FF-SuperNova and let everyone know that I have finished up the plans for free download.
I was really happy to see how this plane turned out. As I’m sure a lot of you know this plane was based on my older and smaller NovaJet, pretty much my all time favorite scratch built plane I’ve made to date. Well I’m happy to report that this plane is like the old NovaJet, but lives up to its name by being a “Super” version. Bigger, Faster and still flies with the same type of maneuverability and handling.
This is a plane I would only recommend for pilots with a bit of skill and experience.  It is a fast and heavy plane and could do a good bit of damage if it got out of control.  That is also why I would only recommend flying this plane at flying fields or other secluded, safe places.
Anyway, if you are looking for a fast plane that is also a great flyer I suggest you give the FF-SuperNova a try. This plane really is a blast to fly and always puts a nice grin on my face when I fly it.  It is pretty easy to build and didn’t even require any carbon spars. That is if you build it like I did with the 1.9 EPP and covered with the Henry’s type fiberglass weave & adhesive.
Best of luck to anyone who does decide to build one!
Best regards


http://rcfoamfighters.com/Models/FF-Peregrine/FF-Peregrine.htm

http://rcfoamfighters.com/Models/FF-SuperNova/FF-SuperNova.htm